Explore Chile: A Traveler’s Guide

Portland meets New York.

Santiago

A developed city with a deep appreciation for art, specifically in the form of fine lined tattoos and Japanese characters. We stayed near San Borja. which felt central, walkable and safe.

Sights

Gabriela Mistral Cultural Centre – I went into this center with the wrong expectations. I expected it to be more of a museum. Instead, it was a community space. Not much to see, but there was a cool community-led art fair that was happening. Good way to engage with the locals. Most of the young people speak English well.
Santa Lucia Hill – This park was lovely. It had echoes of Gaudi’s Park Guell in Spain. There were stunning fountains and archways!
Iglesia Presbiteriana Cristo mi Pastor – A lovely international church with a warm congregation.
Central Market – A bustling market offering fresh fruit (we got a kilo of cherries for $1.50 USD), fish market, and various miscellaneous items and clothes.
National Museum of Art – The plus side of this art gallery is that admission was free. We made the mistake of entering the modern art exhibition first. It was by far the most unpleasant art gallery I’ve ever been to. Video of rats eating letters to display decay, and very intense soundtracks in the background. Hopefully they have a different modern art exhibit when you go. The other parts of the museum were much more to my liking and had a few lovely sculptures.

Eats

Before this trip, a friend told me Chilean food is some of the worst in the world. While I cannot confirm if that is true, it did set my expectations solidly at ground level. Hilariously, I found that perspectively affirmed when we expressed our interest in trying Chilean food to locals and they promptly asked us if we liked Peruvian food and provided some recommendations.

Peumayén Ancestral Food – I would not recommend this spot. It was $80 for their wine tasting menu and they basically just served us 5 courses of ceviche. The standout items being a bread made out of pumpkin, a coconut corn stew that was surprisingly sweet, and berry gelato with a fantastic crumble on the bottom. They also had a really good dessert wine (shocking I know).
El Ají Seco – Very interesting Peruvian food. We got their clams covered in cheese (would not recommend), ceviche with fried shrimp which was quite good, mashed potato stuffed with avocado and various proteins (octopus, shrimp, chicken) on top. Warm avocado has no place in my palate.
Pailas Marisol (I think) – We went to the Central Market with the ambition of eating king crab. For $70 we had an entire king crab, bread, ceviche, wine, fries, a salad. Everything but the crab was below average. Apparently a bunch of these restaurants share a back kitchen but different restaurant fronts. It was shocking the number of restaurants below a 4 star rating.

Puerto Natales

A little town surviving off of tourism, and salmon farming, with aptly sleepy cafes opening at whim. It can be hard to find a spot to eat in the morning on a weekend.

Sprinkeled throughout the coolorrful homems there is stricking european archtecture. Apparently back in Chile extended an offer to Germans to work the farmland. Those Germans brought their architectural styles.

Eat

Holaste! Specialty Coffee – Very cute, they also have a place to store your backpack outside, all of the food was great, very simple cuisine (eggs, avocado, etc.)
El Asador Patagónico – Frankly remarkable lamb.
Mote Con Huesillos – As my friend aptly described, this is Chilean boba. It is made of mote (shelled wheat), huesillo (sun-dried peaches) and peach syrup with sugar and cinnamon sticks. Found in the park at Plaza de Armas Arturo Prat.
San Fabian & Quinta Miga – This is a magical bakery and corner market. Baked goods ranging from pan de queso, cheese balls, to these perfectly doughy brownie balls cvered in chocolate.
Pisco Sour – a drink that was presented at every restaurant. It’s composed of grape brandy, lime juice, simple syrup, and egg white. A version of this with their local fruit calafate, which resemblels a blueberry, is Sour Calafate.

Also worth mentioning, Rental Natales has incredible post cards, although expensive at $3 each. All shots are taken by the owner of the store.

Snacks

Super 8 – wafer, cream inside, chocolate covered, delightful.
Los Tres Negritos – Chalky and porous chocoalte stick with chocolate filling inside. YOu’d think this would be hard to mess up but I can not recommend these.
Crispy coco rolls – Crack.
Bocadillo Velenito – Guava passion fruit sugar squares. Insanely good. So good. Literally what.